Unlike the majority of the Pseudanthias spp., which usually form sizable shoals and swim in the water column, the fathead anthias is often found swimming upside down along the roofs of overhangs, archways, and caves. I have also seen single, pairs, or trios of S. latus hovering out in the open on sheer drop-offs. They usually hang near crevices in which they quickly retreat if threatened. In Savu Savu, Fiji, it is found in association with stony corals, alcyonarians soft corals, and gorgonians. Other authors have reported observing this species in small too large groups associating with drop-off ledges and caves (Randall & Heemstra 1978).  It is possible that this fish shoals in deeper water where it tends to be more abundant.  In the Fijian Islands, I have seen this species at a depth range of 14 to 23 m (46 to 76 ft.), but it has been reported to occur on steep outer reef slopes down to 70 m (231 ft.) (Myers 1999).  As far as its geographical range is concerned, it is known from the Moluccan Islands east to the Fijian Islands, north as far as the Izu Islands of Japan and south to New Caledonia and the Great Barrier Reef (Myers  1999).

You can keep more than one fathead anthias in the same tank. Males are more likely to quarrel among themselves, while females tend to be less aggressive. Therefore, you should try and acquire a male-female pair, two females, or a male and two females. Unfortunately, there are no known color differences between the sexes. To increase the chances of acquiring a pair, purchase individuals that differ significantly in size. Like other anthias, this species is a protogynous hermaphrodite (i.e., some females change into males). On average, male fathead anthias tend to be larger than females. If you want to keep a trio, try and acquire one larger individual and two smaller S. latus. In my observations of pairs and trios in the wild, one individual (presumably the male) was always larger than the other(s). You can reduce the likelihood of intraspecific aggression if you give your pair or trio of fatheads plenty of room to spread out (i.e., a larger tank)."

I have found that if given a peaceful, quiet environment that most fathead anthias will begin feeding soon after introduction to their new home. I have had good luck using live brine, frozen mysid shrimp, and frozen preparations for carnivores as first foods. Make sure you vary the diet and include foods that will help maintain their lovely colors (e.g., prepared frozen foods, color enhancing flake foods). Because these anthias feed on zooplankton, it is important to feed them frequently. I would suggest you feed them at least twice a day.

It is not uncommon to find a fathead anthias that is suffering from decompression related maladies. According to fish collector Tony Nahacky, the swim bladder of this fish can be difficult to purge of excess gas when the fish is being brought to the surface. Individuals harmed in this way usually do not make it all the way to the retail store (they die at the collectors or during shipping). A fathead with a damaged swim bladder will often perch between rocks rather than hover in the water column. When it swims, the head will be angled slightly downward (i.e., the tail is held above the midbody axis) and it will have difficulty maintaining its position in the water column. 

In conclusion, although abundant in certain parts of its range, the fathead anthias is by no means common in the ornamental marine fish market. If you do have access to one or more of these beauties, and have a peaceful community tank in which to keep it, I would highly recommend S. latus for the more experienced fish-keeper. Happy fish-watching!